This will be my first year studding tires. I am planning on studding a set of Kenda Nevegals because I have them and I don't want to spend a lot of money doing this. I'm planning on putting 250 studs in each tire. Hopefully it works out well.
Studded MTB tires
Sunday, November 1 2009 at 9:04pm
#2
Sunday, November 1 2009 at 9:16pm
#3
Tioga Factory DH 2.3s are the absolute perfect tire for studding. I put roughly 120 car studs per tire in and they hook up great. Limitless patterns, very reasonably priced.
Sunday, November 1 2009 at 9:34pm
#4
For a liner I used the super thick tubes you get at Canadian Tire for $10 or something, a seat belt AND a strip of fleece. I found that the seatbelt couldn't quite cover the entire width of the pattern on the inside so the fleece helped. The seat belt also really conformed to the screw heads so the fleece padded it a bit.
They were as heavy as all get out, but I never had a pinch flat.
If you do use screws make sure to use a washer on the inside otherwise they'll push through after a lot of riding.
Sunday, November 1 2009 at 9:46pm
#5
In place of seatbelts you can get cargo straps for 18-wheelers. They come in various widths and thicknesses.
Monday, November 2 2009 at 8:00am
#6
Yea, more or less the same stuff... the cargo straps are likely heavier duty so you might not need the fleece!
Monday, November 2 2009 at 4:47pm
#7
IMHO, using up a pair of Nevegals for this would be a waste. I'd use some cheaper tires, like Tioga Factory DH, or low-end Specialized Eskars (both available for about $25). You want some fairly big blocks to support the studs, so a mud tire might work.
I have 2 pairs, some el-cheapo Specialized Anvils (probably 1.95 or 2.0 width), and some Eskar 2.3's that CyclingGirl and I studded last winter. The Anvils have lasted well (6-7 years?). The Eskars gave better control in soft snow last winter - the Anvils bogged down, but I don't have enough studs in the Eskars (only about 60/tire I think), and they were dicey on slick ice. I'll be adding more studs this winter. A downside to the Eskars is that there is a gap between the center and side knobs - so I studded the center knobs only - if I lean the bike too far, it'll lose grip.
I think the equivalent to the Anvil is probably the Hardrock'r:
http://www.specialized.com/ca/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=42163&menuItemId=9588&eid=5098
Link to the Eskars:
http://www.specialized.com/ca/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=41796&menuItemId=9588&eid=5098
I wonder if the Storm DH would work well, as long as they're not too expensive:
http://www.specialized.com/ca/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=47574&menuItemId=9588&eid=5098
Monday, November 2 2009 at 4:36pm
#8
Last winter i studded my first set of tires..
I went with a pair of well used Kenda's, car tire studs, and a tow strap as a liner.
I don't recall the exact number of studs used, but i believe the front has approx. 160 studs, and the rear close to 200.
Ran this setup most of the winter with no problems, and great traction...and plan on using them again this winter.
When inserting the studs into the tires, the best advise i can give is to take a dime or nickle to your thumb. Your thumbs will still hurt, but will thank you :)
Monday, November 2 2009 at 4:49pm
#9
I wonder if the Storm DH would work well, as long as they're not too expensive:
The Storms are listed as 1200 gram tires. About a pound each more than the Eskars... Stud those up and you'll be wrestling with some large angular momentum.
Nice open tread though.
Monday, November 2 2009 at 6:52pm
#10
If you are actually going to buy a new tire to stud and like the tread on the storm, maybe look at the maxxis swampthing in single ply casing, pretty much the same tread, bit lighter and are reasonably cheap if you know where to look.
Monday, November 2 2009 at 8:34pm
#11
When using car studs, what number stud do you use? I am going to pick some up and stud some tires.
Tuesday, November 3 2009 at 6:59am
#12
Number 12's work the best.
Tuesday, November 3 2009 at 10:55am
#13
I went with #12 as well.
Tuesday, November 3 2009 at 10:57am
#14
Where did you guys pick the studs up at? Do you remember how much they cost?
Tuesday, November 3 2009 at 2:50pm
#15
Your best bet will likely be to call around to tire shops (Scotia Tire, DSL (dartmouth surplus))...the are around $50-70 for a box of 1000. Thats way more than you will ever need so to make it more affordable, it might be worthwhile to go splits or three ways with someone else that may need some.
Last year i had a hard time finding some because i started calling around in the winter, when the studs were in heavy demand for cars so shops weren't too eager to sell a box of em. I ended up buying my box of studs from a fellow ECMTB'r.
Tuesday, November 3 2009 at 1:18pm
#16
I just picked up a box of 1000 for $70 (after tax) at Car Quest.
Wednesday, November 4 2009 at 1:18pm
#17
I wonder if the Storm DH would work well, as long as they're not too expensive:
The Storms are listed as 1200 gram tires. About a pound each more than the Eskars... Stud those up and you'll be wrestling with some large angular momentum.
Nice open tread though.
Wow. With studs and a tire liner, the tires are heavy anyway. Can't imagine a pound heavier.
Wednesday, November 4 2009 at 8:13pm
#18
I like using screws. They seem to keep the tire in better shape and stick like GLUE! I don't even think I'll be mounting a set of my boughten tires this year. I used a Cinder on the rear and a Kinetic on the front. Worked awesome. And I screwed a set of BMX tires as well. It will roost ice, corners like pavement and holeshots like mad! Screws are cheaper, easier and less difficult to procure. I forget the sizes now, but I did it all with a hand screwdriver while I was watching Heartland. A drill would have been hella fast! I don't even pre-drill. Just screw them in, cut the bead of an old slick tire, mount them, and enjoy grippy, flat-free winter riding.
My Nokian Extremes slip on icy snow. My wore out tires with studs will endo on glass like lake ice.
Sunday, November 15 2009 at 3:21pm
#19
I have 6 or 7 old road tires that can be used as liners free, anyone?
Sunday, November 15 2009 at 3:34pm
#20
while screws can be easier to install intially there are several factors to consider. first would be the fact that you now have a lethal buzz saw under you, if you ride wtih any animals or even get in a bump with your fellow riders then the potential for blood is high. they do not last as long as car studs, yes even sheet metal screws. this is greatly mulitplied if you are riding any less than ice or snow. the sharp tips on the ends of the srews will turn into a rounded knob that has a fracton of the bite.
Sunday, November 15 2009 at 5:58pm
#21
while screws can be easier to install intially there are several factors to consider. first would be the fact that you now have a lethal buzz saw under you, if you ride wtih any animals or even get in a bump with your fellow riders then the potential for blood is high. they do not last as long as car studs, yes even sheet metal screws. this is greatly mulitplied if you are riding any less than ice or snow. the sharp tips on the ends of the srews will turn into a rounded knob that has a fracton of the bite.
I second that. I made a set with sheet metal screws once and, though they were amazing for a few weeks, by the end of the season the screws had worn flush with the tread. (Riding to Spider from Dartmouth on Waverly surely killed them.) I took the screws out and put in #12s, and their tips have barely worn in 4 seasons of the same use. Measure twice, cut once. ;-)
Thursday, November 19 2009 at 9:59am
#22
while screws can be easier to install intially there are several factors to consider. first would be the fact that you now have a lethal buzz saw under you, if you ride wtih any animals or even get in a bump with your fellow riders then the potential for blood is high. they do not last as long as car studs, yes even sheet metal screws. this is greatly mulitplied if you are riding any less than ice or snow. the sharp tips on the ends of the srews will turn into a rounded knob that has a fracton of the bite.
I recall a lot of blood coming from a gash in my leg last winter... looked like a murder scene where you and CK worked on freeing his chain from behind the cassette of that Fluit LT 1!
I'm thinking about rev 3.0 for my studded tires.
I know this gets posted every year but I was wondering if anybody had any lessons learned from last year. i.e.:
What's a good tire to buy?
What's the best liner?
Studs or sheet metal screws?
I have used car studs for the last several years as I generally ride roads and trails. The tire studs have a basically unlimited life but not as much grip as I assume screws would. I have also used cheap tires with big lugs but I'm not sure that was the best plan as the last 2 sets basically cracked and deteriorated to the point of failure. As for liners, I've tried various things (seat belt, Gorilla tape, old tire inside). I've found Gorilla tape worked out the best so far taking weight into consideration. The seatbelt was bomb proof but heavy as hell.
This year I'm thinking about going with tire studs along the center of the tire complimented with sheet metal screws off to the sides. Any thoughts on what would be a good setup?