Okay first I have to get over my disappointment that studs doesn't mean men (hee, hee) ... but of course I am forgetting this is a biking website ... ah dah! I believe when we studded tires last winter, you push them through for the outside to inside. It can be alot of work but worth it. I think RH and I have to add some more to some of the tires we studded last year. Have fun!
Studs
I pushed them through from the inside to the outside so the tips stuck out with the flange keeping it secure on the inside. I know i used car studs but not sure what size.
I used #12 Studs. Pushing them through from the inside of the tire to the outside. Same as Snider. Cant remember the size drill bit i used, but I predrilled a small hole from the outside to the inside so I had the hole centered on the knob. Then took a larger bit and went from the inside to outside. Then pushed the studs through.
Good idea drilling a larger hole. I don't know if many people have had issues with studs pulling out but I didn't drill the second hole and haven't lost one stud. It was a pain putting the studs in through the small holes but I still have'em all.
I picked up a box too bjut not sure how big of a hole to drill.... O9 let me know what you do... blog that project yo
I was planning on doing something up. Hope to get started tonight!
13/64 i believe is the proper size. I've made a few tires and have always followed Spins directions with a few personal modifications and the result is a great winter tire.
If you have a drill press you can use it to press the studs in using like a ratchet extender with a bit on the end that fits well with the back of the car stud. You just fold the tire inside out and press each stud in, when I did it it worked great, it sure is better than using pliers.
I spent several hours studding a Kenda Fire this weekend, and the first tire has ~150 studs in it now, and will be close to 250 when it's done. Yes, it's heavy.
I drilled 1/8" pilots from the outside, then followed up with a larger (I think it was 3/8") bit from the outside as well. I only tried drilling the second hole from the inside once, and it ended up with the drill bit coming out the side of the lug and tearing a large section of it off. I only tried one that way as I didn't feel like destroying the tire. That being said, the pilot hole will close right up and sometimes and the larger bit will skate off of the lug and bad things happen. I have a couple of stray holes in the casing.
I've been using a soapy solution on the tire to help the studs push through(inside to outside). I run a centre punch though the drilled hole after the soapy water has been applied to help get the soap through, and move some of the fabric out of the way(quite often you hear a thread creak or snap). Lubricating the tire case has worked better than lubricating the stud.
Vise grips have been much easier to use than pliers, and lets you focus on getting the stud through the lug rather than tightly holding the stud so it doesn't spin.
A drill press would be ideal if you have one, followed by a corded drill, and in last place a cordless drill. Cordless is great when you drill ~5 holes, when it's ~1000, those suckers get heavy.
Actually, CG and I drilled from the outside, and pushed through from the inside using pliers. I used a drill bit the same size as the stud. It does take a lot of work pushing the studs through, but I feel that they'd be more secure and better sealed with the smaller hole. Plus, there's less chance of drilling through the side of a knob. Soap and vice grips sound like a good idea. I'll have to try them when I add studs to one set of my tires.
To dial in the stud length from tire block, I used small nylon washers under the stud. They didn't add much weight, prevented the studs from pulling out and provided a good balance of rolling resistance / traction.
Now that I looked at my studs again it's pretty obvious that they go from inside out.
I'll take some pictures and videos and publish us something as the few I popped in last night look really good.
I have a second set of tires on the way, and they have nice recessed centres in the lugs for ease of drilling.
I also made a jig(well half-assed one) for the tire curve to give a nice drilling surface underneath. I'm going to make a new one out of 2x8 or 2x10. Just scribe with tire radius then cut with a sabre/recip/band saw, maybe put it on an arm, then drop the whole rig into a vise.
I've never had problems drilling through the lugs.
Even after drilling a pilot, sometimes the larger bit would skate off of the lug and puncture the casing(a fairly small lug). A brad point drill bit would solve the problem I suppose
I jsut has teh mads skillz wit da drillz.
Even after drilling a pilot, sometimes the larger bit would skate off of the lug and puncture the casing(a fairly small lug). A brad point drill bit would solve the problem I suppose
The easiest way to avoid this and make studding go quickly is to stretch the tire around a chunk of wood, then clamp it in a bench vice. Drill away, the tire doesn't squirm and it makes this much faster.
Has anybody ever studded a cx tire?
Has anybody ever studded a cx tire?
That would be a major challenge since the knobs offer minimal meat to bite into. If Nokia or anyone offers pre-built studded rubber that would be the way to go for a cross application. I wouldn't want to be on a cross bike in an environment that required the full-meal deal studs.
they sell a version at MEC for somewhere in the region of $65 each. i think they wee more of a commuter tire at 38x700. which might be too wide for my bike.
the trail around here are too deep with snow to ride, but the side roads would be good to ride with studs. But i don't want to put my suspension through a winter of riding backroads.
Any thoughts about these?
Schwalbe Ice Spikers?
A lot more expensive than making your own, but possibly lighter, since you wouldn't have to run a liner.
Awful expensive... even though studding your own takes A LOT of work, it's almost a right of passage.
If I count my time as $0, I can make a better(obviously subjective) set for 1/4 the price of a set of Schwalbes.
The nice Nokians are $190 each, which are apparently awesome, but I'll never know, simply because I won't pay that much for them.
Where can you buy the proper studs???? They are car tire studs ????? Any need to run a strip of tape over the studs from the inside?????
#12 car studs. go to Napa or a tire centre and they should sell for about 65.00 for 1000 (good for 4 tires or so).
I use an old 700c tire with the bead cut off as a liner. A little heavy but no flats last year!!
I picked up 1000 #12 studs today. I'll undertaking this massive project within the next week. I'm going to stud up a set of 2.1 Nevegals. There's 90 rows x 5 accross of tread blocks, and I'm thinking about puting studs into the 3 blocks in the venter of the tire leaving only to 2 outer most blocks without studs. This would make for 270 studs per tire. Is this excessive??????????? Should I only to 2 in the center?
I'm also thinking about using a DH tube as a liner.........maybe use contact cement to glue it to the inside of the tire. The only road Tire I have I use on my trainer.
Anyone have any pictures of their tires? I assume that you want a lot on the front tire at the edges for turning, and a lot in the center on the rear tire for power, as well as some on the sides for turning. How many studs do most of you have in your front and rear tires?
I wouldn't put 270 studs in a tire. It ends up weighing a ton and I haven't noticed any difference between having 200ish studs and 120ish per tire. Two per row should work great.
Biff, I'm with Marty. I've always been a firm believer in "less is more" with studs, especially on really cold days when the ice is rock hard. Fewer studs that dig deeper into the ice trumps a ton of studs which only scratch the surface.
Back in my moto ice-racing days we used the same strategy. Guys with a shitload of studs wouldn't hook up nearly as well as guys with a more moderate amount of studs that were placed apart from each other.
Weight is a factor too. You need to keep the revs up and the cadence steady on icey climbs. Being penalized by unnecessarily heavy wheels won't help keep ya rolling when the terrain angles up.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Right on. Thats what I was wondering. 2 studs per row will make for 180 per tire.
Any thoughts on the DH tube for a liner?????
A road tire with the bead cut out is the only thing I would trust for a tire liner (other than a seatbelt cut out of car, which I have had installed in various tires for the past 10 years). A tube won't last, or least, be trusted.
DH tubes are pretty thick, they'd prolly work provided they're held in place properly so they don't slide to the side and expose the studs. The nice thing about using a beadless old slick or road tire is that it's super quick to install and will work forever with no hassles or moving around.
The drag about getting a flat with studs is that it never happens in the parking lot or in your bikeroom, it only happens on the coldest day, waaaay back in the bush when your hands are too frozen to change the tire.
And its usually dark when it happens. We were ready to leave one guy behind when we got 1/2 way thru the telsat trail one cold winter night and a dude got a flat. Its no big deal until he changes his tube to reveal his liner was another tube....the collective groan echoed through the cold dark air for miles... ha ha
good to know....
I nearly finished studding my front tire, until I came up 17 washers sort! Ahh well, one tire was definitely enough for tonight.
I cut the bead off of the tire I picked up today at one of the local shops, and when I put it inside my tire it wasn't wide enough. roughly 1/2" too narrow. I think I have something I can use here as a liner instead, although using the road tire seamed like a good way to go.
The tire is 1 3/4" wide flattened out, but I need something that is 2 1/4 flattened out. The only thing I could find marked on the tire was 27 - 1 1/4 ...maybe it wasn't the right kind of tire. If anyone has two old tires that are wide enough for what I need I would definitely be interested. Plus whoever could use the one I have is more then welcome to it.
my fingers hurt.
Why not just move west for the Winter Dave? No need for studs here !
if your not already... use pilars my fingers are still hurting.. I found a set on Channel locks to work best .. I also found a 5/16 nut driver to be just about perfect for getting that extra push to fully seat a stud
some of my holes needed a bit of finnessing so I pushed a center punch into them as well, if I just couldn't get a stud in
I snagged a cheap ass set of road tires to use for liners for 7.50 a pop.. have yet to test it but it's 27 X1 1/4 inches and that's larger than a road tire unless my math is off for the width
been toying with the idea of buying some of those slime tire tubes to really avoid the flat just not even sure where I'd find them
I'm 3 hours in and alomost have one tire done. I'm going to get my pliars.
Take heart Biff, a good set of studded tires should last you years. I've had mine since 97.
Take heart Biff, a good set of studded tires should last you years. I've had mine since 97.
That's great news I spent most of yesterday on a tire getting the learning curve still have another to finish up tomorrow night hopefully
Take heart Biff, a good set of studded tires should last you years. I've had mine since 97.
Ya I figured they'd last a long time. If you think about what those studs are designed for, they should never wear out on a MTB.
I will be experimenting with different inserts. The one I'm using isn't the lightest (Spec. Nimbus). My freshly studded tire with insert feels like it weighs more then one of my DH tires.
for your viewing pleasure. Oh ya and thanks for the advice to not put 270 studs in my tires. I went with 135, and I can't imagine putting double the studs in one tire.
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/4424284/
thats one studly tire.
IMO those studs are sticking out too much. They'll be apt to rip out quite easily & the bike will be really snaky on hard surfaces. There will also be a ton of rolling reisitance. I'd consider installing plastic washers behind them. That will keep those suckers in the tire and you can adjust the height of the studs to what works for you.
It's not that much work to redo it with the washers. I've been there. I found robogrip channel lock pliers worked OK.....I also used pennies duct taped to a finger & thumb...........the things we do to ride all year.
The thought of pulling all of those out and installing washers makes me feel ill, but I guess I'll do it if it needs to be done.
Where do you get 300 plastic washers?????
I would ride them for a few rides before you go through the effort of pulling them out to put washers behind them. They will tend to settle in a bit; if not you can go through ripping them all out again. I've never had actual car studs rip out of a tire and mine use to stick out close to that much.
Mine stick out a bit and I've never lost a stud, or ripped the tire nob. Definitely try them first and redo them if you're not happy, but I wouldn't really worry about them too much.
I just brought one of the tire studs with me to the hardware store and trial fitted different washers until I found a decent fit......I think I found them at Home Depot but you'll likely have luck at any hardware store.
As for trying the tire first as is, it's likely not a bad idea. Even if you try the one to get a feel for it.....I just thought I'd put in my 2 cents before you did the other tire. Good luck, you'll have a blast with those things once you're finished.









I'm going to make some studded tires tonight, or at least I'm going to get started anyway. If I'm lucky enough to find my box of studs I'm going to use them. I've only ever used screws before... do I want to push the studs in from the outside or through from the inside?