Suggestions for a Chro Moly XC bike frame

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cerveza_fiesta's picture
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Joined: May 17 2010
Suggestions for a Chro Moly XC bike frame

What up.

I want to get a new hardtail frame for next year for XC riding around Fredericton.

I was thinking of replacing the generously donated (and ancient and creaky) aluminium frame that I use now with a new aluminium frame, but I'm pretty hard on stuff and I want a frame that won't break or creak and will last me forever.

Plus, I'm looking at a full suspension bike a couple years down the road and I figure the extra weight of the chromo will be good training.

Anyways, I know there's a zillion bike companies out there. Can anybody recommend a good place or brand to start looking for decent chromo XC frames?

Any good reasons why I'm completely out to lunch and should not be diverging from an aluminium frame?

I like steel... a lot.

I've heard of more trouble from the big names with steel frames, but that is probably just proportional to the number of frames out there. Indy steel frames are typically more artful with respect to the welds as well.

I've (we've... wife and I) had a Kona Explosif, a Brodie (can't remember the model right now) and a Gunnar Rockhound.

I say the Gunnar is the nicest, but it stands to reason since the frame costs more than the other two put together.

All have a great ride. The Kona had a crack about the seat tube, but other people I know had the same trouble and I suspect it was a batch problem or design flaw to that year.

I got the Kona and Gunnar used online.

Since the steel rides last so long, make sure you've got disk tabs on the seat stays if you want them. None of mine do / did and it's a bit annoying.

And so long as there are no dents / cracks (sometime hard to confirm if buying used online) don't worry about bad paint. Saving $150 on the purchase price will get you a brand new powder coating.

SS Destroyer's picture
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Steel is real and rides with some serious predictability. If you're admittedly hard on frames and don't race go with steel frame and be confident in a good long term choice.

What size do you ride? I have a large Surly 1x1 I would be willing to part with. Msg me for dets.

I had a Salsa Ala Carte for while. Was a lovely frame.

cerveza_fiesta's picture
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Joined: May 17 2010

Thanks for the comments.

Will keep in mind the comment about the rear disc tabs too.

The gunnar one looks sweet, but I dunno if I can afford that. Will do some more research on the Kona, Salsa and a Jamis one I found. They seem to be most in line with my wants.

Any idea how much I'd be laying down for a new frame from any of the manufacturers?

Big names... 'bout $300 - $400, indy... at least $500.

Seriously, don't be afraid of used. Check out e-bay.

cerveza_fiesta's picture
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gods.

Jamis Dragon frame is $799 from Savages.

Buddy there is going to search around for some more options.

Hopefully some of the others are a bit more reasonable.

@O9Man

Will do on the ebay.

Jamis Dragon is $800? Wow.

RJ
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Looking for a steel HT. Well that’s impressive and rare, welcome to the club! I own a 2006 On One Inbred 26er with sliding drops and it’s hands down the best hardtail I’ve ever owned and maybe the best XC bike I’ve ever had…followed closely by a 2008 Trance X.

Anyhoo what I like about the On One is it’s xtra long top tube and short standover. One One makes regular drop or a sliding drop. The other cool and Canadian alternative is an Exprezzo T4. Seems to have similar geo to my On One and it’s the same company that provides Matt Hadley with some fine riding steeds.

cerveza_fiesta's picture
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Ok, after some research, it is the Dragon Pro that dude at Savages quoted me. It's made of reynold 853 chromoly. The 853 alloy is some serious friggin business, with thinner tubes and overall weight comparable to aluminium frames but with better strength.

The reynold 631 is closer to a traditional 4130 chromoly in terms of yield stress and tensile strength. The Dragon comp version is made of reynold 631 chromoly, which is probably cheaper. Savages dude said that there was only one Jamis dragon frame left in Canada though!

I will give the On One and the Exprezzo a look-see.

Anybody know where they post info on frame weights? The bigger manufacturers seem only to have fully kitted-out bikes on their sites, which makes it hard to estimate.

EDIT - Wow, On one is way closer to what I'm looking for in terms of price and geometry.

Keep the comments flowing, this is a big help!

RJ
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If you’re 5’9" then you could hop on mine (16")and see what you think. Opps, new Inbreds have slot drop outs, mine has sliding which is sadly out of production. Are you looking for SS capability or not? The Voodoo Wanga One might be another option (does both).

The Inbred is probably pushing 5lbs. Exprezzo may be lighter.

5'9" or less, otherwise you need bigger.

RJ... my Gunnar has a nice long top tube too. I've been told it's tres old school. I like that kind of geometry because I'm long in the torso.

cerveza_fiesta's picture
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Does the longer top tube and shorter seat stays mean you sit a bit farther back and keep more weight on the back wheel?

I find the aluminium Trek 800 frame I ride now keeps me a bit far forward and I have to hang way back on the thing to keep any traction on hills.

@RJ

I'm about 6' and pretty average in leg/body proportion. Long-ass arms though so I figure sitting farther back would be more comfortable. I've been looking at 19" frames, but thanks for the offer.

Anybody know a good guide to fitting bikes? Google has a lot of BS on it that is not very helpful.

I find the longer top tube has me in more of a racing position, like on a road bike.

I prefer the top tube measurement for sizing a bike. I find it's more telling for my body type since I find some 19" frames way too small and others a little on the large side.

Chromag makes some sweet Steel H/T's. The Sakura sounds like what you are looking for.

http://www.chromagbikes.com/frames/sakura

cerveza_fiesta's picture
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That Sakura frame looks pretty awesome.

They describe it as being pretty light-duty though and I like to rumble around on bumpy stuff and singletrack. Maybe the Samurai would be a better choice.

I'd probably have to go with a bigger fork either way, since the one I have now (that I would like to use on the new frame if possible) is only 80mm. They say they set up samurais with a 110 - 130mm fork usually so an 80mm fork would probably make it perform crappily. Meh...if I can save some on the frame then I have more money for a new fork! Woot!

new question:

I notice on the HT designs (like the Sakura) that they don't seem to have bolt-on hangers for the derailleurs. Should I look for frames that accept bolt-on hangers rather than ones that incorporate it into the drop-out or not worry about it with the chromo?

It's just that I've seen the aluminium ones break a few times and it would suck balls to have it happen to my new chromo frame.

I few of the guys I went to school with out west have Chromag's and love them. Might be a bit higher priced if I recall.

hunt down a rockey, hammer or hammer race?, i do believe. kick ass chromo frames.

A few years back when I was looking at a steel frame I really took a liking to the Cove Handjob. Slightly more relaxed geometry and a solid frame that handles very well in the woods. Definitely worth a look.

I have owned a few over the years, and my On One inbred is by far the best. I will never part with it. I have had it for 5 years now, and still going strong. The paint is basicly beat right off of it, and have gone threw a bunch of wheels and stuff, but the frame is still going strong. Mine is set up single speed, but you can get a hanger version aswell. You wont be disapointed. And there cheap. I got mine for $199 CAN, no tax. But I think that was a good deal. I think there more like 400 or 500.

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FTOO26IN/inbred-vertical-dropout-frameset

cerveza_fiesta wrote:

Should I look for frames that accept bolt-on hangers rather than ones that incorporate it into the drop-out or not worry about it with the chromo?

It's just that I've seen the aluminium ones break a few times and it would suck balls to have it happen to my new chromo frame.

I've bent the one on my old steel Scab frame a couple times and have just been able to straighten it with an adjustable wrench...

RM Hammers are nice... and abundant on e-bay. So strangely abundant that I thought they might be knock offs or something!

cerveza_fiesta's picture
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Right on.

Those on-one bikes look pretty deadly and are right in the price range I was looking to pay...maybe a bit high but still affordable for sure. Based on the One One site:

The inbreds are better climbers with long top tube and short seat stays to keep the rider over the rear weheel + they are made for smaller forks up to 100mm.

The on-one 456 frame is made to bring you a bit farther forward off the back wheel and are made for 100-160mm forks, and make up the shift in rider weight by allowing for fatter tires to increase traction. Better downhill ability too with a heavier rake on the head tube.

so.....

Considering 99% of my riding in the coming years will be xc singletrack around fredericton, I was leaning toward the inbred frame. Longer forks and bigger tires just add weight for the 1% of the time I'm actually using it right? Probably best to stick with something purpose-built for climbing. Any other opinions on that?

I rode my Gunnar with an 80 mm fork in Fredericton for a few years and it was great. Then I moved to NS... didn't work out as well.

RJ
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I was not aware that many steel frame have long top tubes and low stand over! The On One fits me like a glove (I have short legs and a long torso as well). I love my Inbred to death and will probably never part with mine. Plus the bikes with sliding drops are classics now! The only negative is is tubing: could be better quality, but this is what you get for an affordable price point. Anyway you get the point I’m smitten. And you will have the only one in town now.